Monday, 28 July 2014
On 9:21 am by Unknown No comments
DRAWING A 3D SPHERE
Why 3D Spheres Are Important
In the last tutorial we learned about drawing 3D shapes, and I hinted a little that 3D Spheres were particularly important in pencil portrait drawing.
So, now I will tell you why.
The human face is made up of many different elements; eyes, cheeks, lips, a chin and so on. None of these elements are flat, they are all textured and filled out.
By breaking the human face down into these separate elements, you will notice that many of the elements have a spherical resemblance.
Maybe you can see more than the nineteen I have circled; for example the lips have hundreds all bunched very closely together to create almost eclipse shapes.
There are also the two pupils in the eyes, and even the glint of light reflecting off them is a spherical shape.
Now you can see just how much of the human face is made up from 3D Spheres, you should be getting a clearer understanding of why they are so important in pencil portraiture.
Drawing A 3D Sphere
In the last drawing tutorial, Creating Depth With 3D Drawing, we created a cubic shape using the origin point and the three axis.
A 3D Sphere is different because unlike a cube we have no origin point or axis to work from, so we have to use a bit of our own common sense and imagination for this one, so you will need to get your creative juices flowing.
We also learned about highlights, shadows and mid-tones. We will be using these again, but we will also be introducing two more tones; core shadows and cast shadows.
These two tones are basically the building blocks you will use to create a shadow effect of the subject.
When we finish this 3D Sphere tutorial- and I should warn you, it looks a lengthy one but you should be able to complete it within thirty minutes- you should end up with something like this.
On this diagram you can see all the tones we have already learned about, as well as the two new ones.
How To Draw A 3D Sphere
For this you will need;
- Your 2B pencil
- A sheet of paper
- A Ruler
- Putty Rubber
- Your Shading Guide
- Your Blending Tool – Remember, I will show you how to make your own Tortillon when you sign up to my free newsletter!
- A piece of tissue to rest your wrist
- And an egg cup- or something similar in shape.
For the sake of following this tutorial, I suggest the upper-right hand side.
This is where we are going to place the center of our highlight.
This is where our shadow will be.
You should stop when you get about half way across the circle.
These will be the mid-tones.
You can correct this yourself by simply bending the ends to follow the shape of the circle.
The easiest way is to use the oval we created for the highlight as a guide, and work your way out to create three oval shapes.
You can leave a wide gap in the middle. You should now have 10 separate eclipses.
You should now have something like this.
The next in an 8, and so on until you have shaded the last eclipse in a 2, and the highlight oval is left untouched (shade 1).
Remember to work from the lightest part to the darker parts to avoid adding too much lead to parts we don’t need it.
I tell you how to make your own Tortillon when you sign up to my free newsletter. Sign up at the bottom of the page!
12.) Now we are going to add the Cast Shadow. This is where the subject (3D Sphere) is obstructing the light-source from getting to, so we will place this directly opposite to our light-source.
13.) Now we can add our core shadow. This is the part of the image where absolutely no light can reach, such as the very base of the subject. Use the diagram to add your core shadow in a shade of 10.
14.) Now we have the core shadow in place, and a rough guideline for our cast shadow, we can shade this area in, gradually moving downwards from a shade 10 (core shadow) to a shade 1, where the light-source can reach.
16.) We have now nearly finished our 3D Sphere.
All we have left is to add some more highlights, and the outline.
So using a piece of putty rubber formed into a point, dab away any lead which may have been smudged or blended in our original ovals highlight, and match the tones up smoothly around it if need be. You may also wish to use your blending tool again here to smooth the lead out.
17.) Another place to add some highlights using your putty rubber is on the left side of the 3D sphere near the shadow. This is because the light bounces off the surface and reflects back on to the subject.
18.) The final part is to add our heavy outline. This is important to help the image stand out from the page, so take your time.
And there you have your finished 3D Sphere. Well Done!
This tutorial was the hardest yet, so if you managed to stick it out and create your first 3D sphere, then you are well on your way now.
Remember, spheres are everywhere. If you can nail a sphere down perfectly, then that is half the battle done in pencil portraiture, so keep practising them over and over until you can do one without an egg cup and the guidelines.
You now know so much already about pencil drawing, including the different tools, techniques and terms that pencil artists use; I am impressed!
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